Here are some beginner fly fishing techniques to help you learn how to cast your fly rod for the first time.

First, put the rod at your feet and stand in an open area with at least 20 yards of space both in front of you and behind you. Pretend you are holding a paintbrush in your dominant hand, and stand comfortable with your dominant foot just slightly in front of the non-dominant foot. Keeping your upper arm relaxed and your elbow bent at 90 degrees, begin to move your forearm, wrist and hand forward horizontally, with the imaginary paintbrush at about the level of your waist. Imagine the paintbrush is dripping with paint and you are trying to flick the paint forward without scattering any paint out to the sides.

In order to do so, you’ll move your forearm smoothly forward with the paintbrush held out to the side. If you flick your wrist forward too early, the paint will spray everywhere. In order to keep the paint on the brush, you’ll want to minimize swinging the handle of the brush as you move your arm forward. As your forearm moves ahead, you’ll flick your wrist forward at the last second, trying to fling all the paint on the brush straight out in front of you.

As you do this forward flicking movement, shift your bodyweight forward onto your front foot. This entire motion is one fluid movement.

Now you’ll reverse the process.

Imagine that the brush is soaked with paint again. Slowly bring your forearm backwards, keeping your upper arm loose and relaxed, and letting your forearm guide the rest of your body. Slowly rotate your shoulders back while keeping the brush angle still so that the paint doesn’t spatter. As you bring your forearm past your body to the rear, again flick the paintbrush backwards trying to flick the paint straight behind you.

You can see that with each movement forward and backwards, there is a slight pause at the extremes while you allow the momentum of your forearm combined with a flick of the wrist to throw the paint directly in front of you and directly behind you.

Practice this motion with just the body over and over again. when you feel like the motion becomes fluid, move your forearm from a horizontal position close waist level to about a 45 degree angle, like a pitcher throwing sidearm. Practice the motion again, and slowly progress until the movement is done directly overhead.

Take frequent breaks so that your arm doesn’t get tired and your form stays good.

Feel like you’ve got it?

Time to pick up the fly rod and try it for real!

Chance is that grandpa’s bamboo fly fishing rod would be considered an antique or vintage fly fishing rod. It may have cost as little as $3 when new, which even in the early part of the 20th century, was a good price for a handmade fly fishing rod. These days, a handmade bamboo fly fishing rod costs upwards of $1000 or more, many of them made hand, by individual craftsmen working out of their home garage or workshop.

History of the Bamboo Fly Fishing Rod
Bamboo Fly fishing Rods were first made in the mid 19th century. The first handmade bamboo fly rod (at least in the United States) was made by Mr. Samuel Phillippi, a gunsmith Easton, PA. Using techniques borrowed from bow makers, the bamboo was split, shaped, glued and tapered into a rod shape, frequently consisting of three to four pieces that fit together making a compact fly fishing rod that could be easily carried in a backpack to a distant trout stream.

Prior to this, fly fishing rods were made of Greenheart and Ironwood, two dense, water resistant woods. The Greenheart tree grows in South American, and the Ironwood tree grows in the southwestern United States. Fishing piers are still made of Greenheart which gives support to the wood’s strength and water durability.

As people continued to make bamboo fly fishing rods in their own garage homes and store shops, the technique was continuously refined. The first man to create a “production” quality bamboo fly fishing rod for sale was HL Leonard, whose fly fishing rod company still thrives today.

Buy a Bamboo Fly Fishing Rod
Browse the selection of great bamboo fly fishing rods available on our eBay auction site…we feature used bamboo fly rods, vintage bamboo fly rods, and even a few brand new handmade bamboo fly fishing rods for auction.

Brainard Lake
About a 30-40 minute drive West of Boulder through the quaint town of Ward, Brainard Lake lies at an altitude of about 10,300 feet. The lake is a short walk from the nearest road and parking lot, so bring a flashlight and don’t be afraid to fish through the evening rise. Look for the best fishing near the inlets of Mitchell and South St. Vrain creeks on the west end of the lake.

South St. Vrain Creek
Three sections of the South St. Vrain are interrupted by Long Lake, at 10520 feet, and Brainard Lake at 10,300 feet. The portion above long lake is a relatively low grade with widths around 15-20 feet, at lest once you get a few hundred yards above Long lake. If you keep going, you’ll eventually come to Lake Isabelle, where the headwaters of the creek are formed from the Isabelle glacier, another mile north of the lake.

Between Long lake and Brainard lake is a section of creek about 3/4 of a mile long, and then continues below Brainard lake another 6 miles before reaching private property. The creek has cutthroat, rainbows, brown trout and brook trout.

Long Lake
Sitting above Brainard Lake at 10520 feet, Long Lake covers about 40 acres. Float tubing and shore fishing can both be effective here.

Middle St. Vrain Creek
Close to Ward, CO, the banks of this section of the creek are covered in moss and wildflowers. Aspens line the banks, as do old-growth evergreens. Streamside hiking can be slow due to the thickness of the vegetation. This section of the creek is narrow with close lying brush, making an 8 foot or smaller fly rod essential. You’ll find primarily Brown Trout here, but other species are present as well.

Left Hand Canyon
Fly Fishing Boulder means that you have a few close place to choose from, and Left Hand Canyon is one of them. Only a 10-15 minute drive from the heart of Boulder, Left Hand Creek offers fun close fishing in a rocky stream bed. Willows and sunflowers are abundant making the vegetation different from what you’ve been seeing in the higher elevations.

Middle Boulder Creek
A 20 minute drive up Canyon Boulevard into Roosevelt National Forest. Small wild brook trout hang close to the banks and other shelter. Casting here is good due to sparse stream side vegetation, so your 9 foot fly fishing rod (or longer) will do well here.

South Boulder Creek
This creek runs through Walker Ranch, now one of the Boulder County recreation areas. The hike downhill from the parking lot to the creek is pleasant, but you’ll definitely notice the elevation change on the way up. Walker ranch is open to cyclists except on Wednesdays and Sundays, so you can plan your hike if you want to avoid them. Parts of Boulder Creek are up to 40 feet across, so casting is not an issue. Both Browns and Rainbows can be found here.

Fly Fishing Boulder can be a rewarding day of fishing if you plan your day well. Plan for mountain weather in the higher elevations, and stop back at one of the local brewpubs after your day of fishing. Get lots of rest because tomorrow you can Flyfish Boulder all over again!

Have you ever played with a house cat by dragging a piece of yarn across the floor in front of it? Since the cat is always has to be “in charge”, he usually lifts his nose and acts like he doesn’t see it. But drag it quickly around the corner and he’ll likely pounce on it in an instant.

My brother and I noticed that muskies behave in a similar fashion. They are famous for following a lure for great distances without striking. And, if you just stop the retrieve, they just disappear. But if you pull it fast — simulating the desire of the prey to escape — the musky would accelerate and sometimes nail the lure.

A few years ago, I watched a group of stocked trout in a northern Ohio stream that runs from “The Blue Hole” nine miles and empties into Lake Erie. They ignored everything that we presented to them. Then I noticed that when I slowly stripped a weighted muddler along the bottom, an occasional fish would look at it. That’s all he did. He’d just LOOK at it…didn’t even move his head, only his eyeball moved…and just for a split second. Then I remembered the behavior of a cat and a musky — They couldn’t stand for that piece of yarn or a lure to “get away.”

It helped me if I visualized it from the perspective of the fly. Here’s how: Pretend that you are the minnow (or frog, crawdad, nymph) that panics and says: “Oh, man, I’m in trouble, I gotta get out of here now!” Start to “run away”, and then suddenly stop. When I watched the trout in this Ohio stream, if I timed it just right, the fish would crash into the fly before he could find the brake.

Also, as I practiced on those stocked trout, and noticed that if the strips were too long the trout would give up. But, it worked when I used 3 to 6 inch quick strips with continued movement between strips … keep the rod tip moving sideways to continue dragging the fly … then a sudden stop … then a hook set.

This technique seems to work on all kinds of fish even if I can’t see them because the water is too deep or muddy. (For example: when bouncing a weighted crawfish imitation along the bottom of a pool.) It also works in salt water just as well – maybe better — since many of these fish tend to be more aggressive.

When you can’t see the fish, just imagine that you can see the fish move his eyeball … put your fly in a panic-escape mode … stop … set the hook.

Some days, it seems to be pure magic.

On any given evening you can search eBay for a fly fishing reel, and be confronted with nearly 1000 to choose from. Hopefully this will help to narrow down your search and single out the one that’s right for you.

1) Start with your fly fishing rod..

For starters, you’ll need to know what weight fly rod you’ll be matching the reel to. Like fly rods, fly reels are designed to work with a certain range of fly line weights. Most reels will accommodate a two or three weight range. For instance, one reel will recommend using an 8 or 9 weight line, and another may be designed for use with 2, 3, or 4 weight lines. As you go from smaller to larger weight lines, the appropriate corresponding reel will generally increase in size and weight. In part, this is due to the need for a larger spool that can hold a larger diameter fly line, as well as a greater amount of backing. A reel for a 3 weight setup may only hold 100 yards of 20# backing, while a 12 weight saltwater reel may need to hold over 400 yards of 30# backing!

2) Balancing your rod with your reel

This is a good time to mention that the actual weight of the reel itself can be a factor as well. When loaded with backing and fly line, the reel you choose should be of such a weight that it balances your rod properly. The balance point should be close to where your index finger naturally rests on the rod’s grip. It sounds odd, but having too light of a reel can make your setup seem heavier than it would if you had a slightly heavier reel that balanced the rod better! Most of the time this isn’t a big issue, but keep it mind, particularly if you’re looking for a reel to mate to a heavier than average rod – bamboo for example.

3) What type of reel frame do you need?

The next question is what kind of reel frame to look for. There are two main issues to consider. One is simple – saltwater or freshwater? If you plan on doing any saltwater fishing, make sure the reel you choose is recommended for saltwater use. These are generally hardier reels with corrosion-resistant finishes (although one should still rinse them off with fresh water after each day’s fishing).

If you’ll be fishing for strong, fast fish like steelhead or bonefish, there is a benefit to being able to reel up slack line as quickly as possible when the fish makes a run towards you.

The second reel frame issue is whether to look for a standard arbor reel or a large arbor reel. The arbor of a reel is the cylinder in the center of the reel that the backing and fly line is wound around. Large arbor reels are relatively recent innovations that can offer a couple of advantages. With a large arbor reel, a single rotation of the spool while reeling results in a greater length of line being retrieved.

If you’ll be fishing for strong, fast fish like steelhead or bonefish, there is a benefit to being able to reel up slack line as quickly as possible when the fish makes a run towards you. The larger circumference will also help reduce fly line memory since your line won’t be wound into as small a coil as it would on a standard arbor reel. Standard arbor reels are not without their own advantages, however. They tend to be lighter and less bulky than their large arbor counterparts, and are often less expensive as well.

4) Is fly fishing really a drag?

Another consideration that should play an important part in your choice of reel is the drag system it utilizes. There are two main types of drag systems - the click & pawl, and the disc drag. Click & pawl is a style of spool restraint that uses one or two spring loaded “pawls” that ratchet against teeth on the spool. Disc drag reels use a more sophisticated system where variable pressure is applied directly to the spool via a disc of cork or synthetic material.

Smaller, less expensive reels are often of the click & pawl variety. The fish targeted with these reels tend to be smaller trout or panfish, which don’t demand a particularly precise or durable drag system. These fish are usually brought in by stripping line as opposed to having them “on the reel”. If you’ve hooked a fish that requires more drag than your click & pawl reel provides, you can always “palm” the outer rim of the spool for increased resistance.

Larger or more expensive reels tend to incorporate disc drag systems because the fish targeted with those reels may be salmon or steelhead or any number of saltwater species that can give a drag system a real workout. These fish can smoke 100 yards of line off a reel in a few seconds, and require a drag system that will protect your tippet by providing smooth, consistent resistance without overheating. If you’ll be targeting this type of fish, the drag system of your reel is likely to be its most critical component.

5) Right versus Left handed fly reels

Last, don’t forget to choose which hand you prefer to reel with. Many fly reels can easily be converted from left to right hand retrieve or vice versa, but some reels may have to be sent back to the factory for conversion if you change your mind once you’ve made your purchase.

6) Are you fishing for Bass or Bluegill?

By now you’ve probably figured out that if you plan to target larger, faster fish, your reel choice is quite important. You’ll probably want a large arbor model, and you’ll definitely want a high quality drag system. And, this means that you’ll most likely be looking at some higher priced reels. On the other hand, if you just need a “line holder” for your lightweight bluegill rod, your choice in reels is not as critical, and will likely be a less expensive proposition. Of course, there just may be a 6 pound bass lurking in that bluegill pond…

My brother and I stood out in the hot shed for the last time, looking at our Dad’s old fishing tackle. Everything was still as he’d left it when he passed away. We had known the day would come when we’d split it up between us, but for 10 years I think we didn’t really want to face that task. We were content just knowing it was there; being able to go out and paw through it, and reminisce about the old days. Now that Mom has gone on to join him, it’s time to clean the place out.

There wasn’t much there of any value, other than sentimental. And, I wasn’t too concerned about it because I already have the one piece of fishing tackle from my Dad that means the most to me anyway. On my 16th birthday, Dad gave me a fly rod that he’d built for me himself. To my knowledge he’d never built a rod before, but there wasn’t much he couldn’t do if he set his mind to it. He used a two-piece golden-yellow fiberglass Fenwick blank, and wrapped the guides in green silk. He later showed me how he had rigged up a contraption on his workbench that allowed him to use his electric drill as a lathe motor, which he then used to custom shape the cork grip! Under the final clearcoat in his engineer’s handwriting, he printed:

To Keith from Dad
August 31st, 1974

By today’s standards, the rod is absurdly heavy and slow, with an action that flexes all the way down into the grip. I didn’t even know that there were different “weights” of fly rods for the first 20 years I owned the rod. I guess what you don’t know won’t hurt you, because I got along just fine using my one rod for everything. Now that I know how to decipher the numbers on the Fenwick blank, I suspect that I may hold some kind of record for total number of 6-inch bluegill caught using an 8 1/2 foot 7 weight rod! Like Ruark said, use enough gun…

But as I stood there with my brother, I realized that there was one piece of tackle that my heart was set on - Dad’s old fly reel. It was a big, green anodized Shakespeare Automatic Model 1837. It had fascinated me for as long as I can remember. As you stripped line off of it, or turned the rim of the spool, a big spring inside would wind up, kind of like a tape measure. Then, you’d press a lever on the side of the reel, and ZZZZING, it would zip all the line back onto the spool. When I was little, Dad must have told me a dozen times to stop playing with it – it wasn’t a toy! Yes, I ZZZZINGed it a few times when he wasn’t around. The reel must weigh a pound. What’s really funny though, is that when I finally brought it back to Michigan and mounted it on the old Fenwick, it balanced the heavy rod perfectly. It was finally home. And I can tell you right now, that there’s not a Payne or Dickerson or Garrison in the world that I’d trade for the fly rod that my Dad made for me.

Each time I would come back down to visit Mom, I would spend some time out in the shed with Dad’s tackle. I’d open the old tackle box and look at the Heddon Crazy Crawler and the worn out River Runt, the well used Shakespeare 1920 Wondereel and his “new” Mitchell 300. At one point he had taken to making his own spinners, and there were still glass jars full of chrome Indiana blades, tiny red beads, and feathered treble hooks. Whenever I looked at these things, I’d try to conjure up an image of him using that particular lure or reel. There are certainly other keepsakes of Dad’s around, but it’s his fishing tackle that can most vividly bring him back to me. Looking back, I can’t believe I didn’t realize at the time just how special it was to be able to fish with him, or even to just look over his shoulder while he puttered at his workbench. In hindsight, I can also see that as he and his bad ticker grew older, he was more enamored with the idea of fishing than the act itself. He had already “been there and done that”. I know he was also very proud that he had made a fisherman out of my brother, and maybe prouder still when together they made one out of me.

I kind of copped out and left 90% of the tackle there that day for my brother to deal with. That’s OK though, because he has a growing crop of grandkids that it will trickle down to. They’re still young, but I’ve already seen them pulling 6-inch bluegill out of the lake by my brother’s house. The next time we all get together, I’m going to make a point of doing a little fishing with them. I may even bring my old fly rod along and let the kids ZZZZING the reel – I think Dad would like that.

Anne Frank’s Diary is the best example. In her diary, Anne kept a running commentary of the two years her family spent hiding from the Nazis. While your fly fishing sessions will hopefully be more lighthearted, keeping a journal will let you remember them as the years pass.

A good fly fishing journal combines a number of characteristics. First, it should be compact. Second, it should have a water-resistant pages and a case to protect it from the elements. Third, the journal should contain blank areas to write your notes. Fourth, the journal should contain cue spaces to remind you to keep notes on specific things. Cues should include:

• Who you went fishing with,
• The weather conditions,
• The fishing conditions,
• The flies you used, what worked and what didn’t,
• What you caught, and
• Lodging and places to eat,

As time passes, your fly fishing journal can be used as:

• A guide for you or friends that return the same location,
• Information on gear and flies to take,
• Memories to reflect upon years later, and
• Something to pass on to your children and grandchildren.

Keeping a fly fishing journal only requires a few minutes of writing. You can fill it out on the ride home or during a break. As time passes, your journal will become a collection of incredibly valuable fly fishing information. Imagine the look on a friend’s face after they mention going on a trip and you whip out your journal for the spot!

About The Author
Rick Chapo is with http://www.nomadjournals.com - makers of diary and writing journals. Visit http://www.nomadjournaltrips.com/fly_fishing to read more fly fishing articles and stories.

As for my own interest in fly fishing, the seed was planted when I was about seven or eight, with my father teaching me how to tie a variety of flies even before I learned how to cast a fly rod. But my enthusiasm didn’t grow until years later (almost thirty years later!) when I finally began to enjoy the slower pace of fly fishing (as opposed to a myriad of other sports I enjoyed such as rock climbing, kayaking and mountain biking).

I moved to Colorado for the summer and spent every moment possible outside simply looking at the mountains. Fly fishing became my preferred way to pass the time. My initial efforts were filled with trial and error as I learned how to tie on flies, leaders and tippets. I spent whole afternoons doing nothing but “wet wading” up small mountain streams learning where the fish were.

Actually catching a fish was a thrill, but not the highlight of my days in the mountains.

After my third summer in the Rockies, I now consider myself somewhat knowledgable about fly fishing. The actual skill involved has always felt fairly natural to me, having learned how to cast a fly rod in my back yard as a kid. But actually catching fish is an ongoing learning process. Studying stream flows, weather patterns, cloud covers, insects, hatches, fly patterns, fly rods, fly reels, fly lines and general fly fishing techniques are topics that can consume you for a lifetime.

I hope this website helps you find the information and gear that you need to continue your fly fishing adventures and enjoyment of the outdoors!

Angled Reviews is your one stop resource for Fly Fishing, Fly Fishing Gear Reviews, Fly Fishing Fly Selection and a conveniently integrated eBay Store.

Fishing done either for recreation (as a part of one’s hobby or pastime) or done for a source of living requires the right kind of tool to make profit out of it. Judging by stone inscriptions, fishing rods go back to ancient Egypt, China, Greece and Rome.

Prior to widespread availability of synthetic materials, such as fiberglass and graphite composites, fishing rods were typically made from split Tonkin bamboo. A fishing rod or a fishing pole is a tool used to catch fish, usually in conjunction with the sport of angling. (Sustenance and commercial fishing usually involves nets).

A length of fishing line is attached to a long, flexible rod or pole: one end terminates in a hook for catching the fish.

Types of fishing rods :

1) Carbon fibre pole : These high-tech poles are commonly used for coarse fishing in Europe, they are made using a variety of different qualities of carbon fibre which is reflected in the price, the prices range from about GBP 100 to GBP 5,000.

Although cheaper models can be purchased from local tackle dealers for about GBP 50. Varying in length from 5 meters through to the longest at about 18.5 meters, they allow very precise positioning of the bait.

2) Fly rods : Fly Fishing rods are long, thin, flexible fishing rods designed to cast a fly usually consisting of a hook tied with fur, feathers, foam, or other lightweight material.

Originally made of split bamboo, most modern fly rods are constructed from man-made composite materials, including fiberglass, carbon/graphite, or graphite/boron composites.

3) Ultra-light rods : These rods are used to fish for smaller species, they provide more sport with larger fish, or to enable fishing with lighter line and smaller lures.

4) Ice Fishing rods : These are typically very short spinning rods, varying between 24 and 36 inches in length, used to fish through holes in the cover ice of frozen lakes, rivers and ponds.

Rod specifications :

1) Power : Also known as “power value” or “rod weight.” Rods may be classified as Ultra-Light, Light, Medium-Light, Medium, Medium-Heavy, Heavy, Ultra-Heavy, or other similar combinations. Power is often an indicator of what types of fishing, species of fish, or size of fish a particular pole may be best used for.

Ultra-light rods are suitable for catching small bait fish and also pan fish, or situations where rod responsiveness is critical. Ultra-Heavy rods are used in deep sea fishing, surf fishing, or for heavy fish by weight.

2) Action : “Action” refers to the responsiveness of the rod to bending force, and the speed with which the rod returns to its neutral position. An action may be slow, medium, fast, or a combination (e.g. medium-fast.) Fast Action rods flex most in the tip section. Slow rods flex more towards the butt of the rod.

Hence keeping in mind the types of fishing rods available in the market along with their various specifications one has to be really careful before placing an order for a fishing pole.

The easiest way of selecting a fishing rod for oneself is to know first the type of fish that one would be fishing so that he can easily eliminate the other varieties and select the one that suits his choice of fish the best.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-articles/4-types-of-fishing-rods-for-the-avid-angler-207846.html

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Once you make the decision that you want to become part off the world of fly fishing, you have to then decide if you are going to keep your catches or release them back into the water safe and sound. Some fishermen keep all the fish they catch, others release all that they catch, and some choose to use a combination of the two.

These fly fishermen keep only what they are going to eat, or give to other people to eat, and release all of the other fish they catch.

If you decide to practice fly fishing using the catch and release method, it is very important that you crush the barb of the hook you are going to use. The other choice is to use a hook without barbs. This is done to avoid any unnecessary injuries to the fish. It is also important to keep the fight as short as possible so the fish does not become overtired. At the first opportunity, bring the fish to hand but do not take it out of the water. While holding it under the water, remove the hook using a pair of fishing pliers.

If the fish seems to be too tired to swim away, hold it gently just under the surface of the water with one hand around its caudal wrist, which is just ahead of the tail. With the other hand, support the fish under its belly. Rock the fish gently back and forth making sure that the water enters its mouth and flows over its gills. Using this method, the fish should gain its energy back quickly. When you feel the fish try to pull away, gently release your hold on it. Using the catch and release method of fly fishing can be very rewarding.

Often fishermen believe they should release the smaller fish that they catch and keep the larger ones. They might not be aware that the larger fish usually represent the more genetically suitable spawner. They are the ones that are the most valuable fish for keeping a healthy species. It is wiser to keep the smaller fish to eat and release the larger ones back into the water.

Some people while fly fishing, feel that it is all right to catch as many fish as possible as long as they release them all. However, catch and release is not foolproof. Many fish are injured during the process and some even die. At times, even though the fisherman doesn’t keep any of the fish he catches, the overall fish mortality rate for that day is higher then if he had caught and kept the legal limit. Most fish, even if they are not physically injured, will sulk for a while after they have been released because of the trauma of being caught and released.

Catch and release fly fishing can be a wonderful way to experience the sport. Every release of a fish contributes to the conservation efforts that ensures the future of having future stocks of fish.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-articles/fly-fishing-catch-and-release-210019.html

About the Author:

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